There's no need to get nervous about fertilizing your plants. The benefits are dramatic, as shown by our before and after photos below, and there's no special trick involved to providing your plant with the nutrients they need to thrive.

•  Q&A: Fertilizing Your Plants-As Easy as N-P-K!

Answer: All fertilizers are labeled with three numbers. These numbers represent the ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphate (P) and potassium (K). In basic terms, nitrogen promotes foliage growth, phosphate encourages healthy root growth and flower production and potassium promotes the overall health of the plant by building disease resistance.

Question: Which Fertilizer Do I Need?

Answer: For general needs, we recommend a fertilizer that has high amounts of nitrogen and low amounts of phosphate, such as Proven Winners-branded Water Soluable Fertilizer and Controlled Release Fertilizer (available at independent garden centers Spring 2003). You should look for a ratio of about 24:12:17, or something close to that, will work well for healthy plants and flowers. The three photos below show dramatic improvements in a plant given a 20:10:20 ratio fertilizer. Periodic feeding with iron will also help to prolong plant life and enhance performance.

Question: I Bought Some Fertilizer- Now What?

Answer: Apply the fertilizer according to the method described on the package. In the case of fertilizers, more is not necessarily better, so be sure to measure accurately. We recommend applying a nitrogen-rich fertilizer every two weeks. Look for one with an N:P:K ratio of about 24:12:17 and a fairly high amount of iron.

See The Results For Yourself!
These three pictures show the dramatic before and after results plant fertilization can produce. In just two weeks time, this plant went from barely alive to brighter foliage and more vigorous growth. After two months, the very same plant is lush and vibrant!

The only big deal about fertilizing your plants and flowers is the amazing results you'll see in a few weeks time. If you're not fertilizing your plants, grow your own before and after success story!

Plant before fertilization
 
 

Same plant, about two weeks later, following application of 20-10-20 fertilizer.
 

Same plant, two months into bi-weekly application of 20-10-20 fertilizer.

• Q&A: Overwinter Fuchsias 

Answer:  Before frost, cut back fuchsia branches to the pot edge. Store them indoors in a 45F, bright, sunny room or, in areas where the ground doesn't freeze, outdoors in a 1-foot deep trench covered with leaves or bark mulch. 

• Q&A: Dividing Hostas  

Answer: Spring is the better time to dig and divide hostas. If you wait until the weather gets hot, they'll have trouble adjusting. Clumps of hosta aren't too difficult to divide, but the roots tend to tangle so it's easiest just to cut through the root mass, taking a few leaves with roots attached, and planting them in their new garden spots. Amend the soil first, and add a peatmoss mulch around the plants after transplanting. Water them well once they're in the ground, but don't fertilize until new leaves begin to unfurl. 

To get the best flavor and highest oil concentration from culinary herbs such as sage, thyme, oregano, and basil harvest in the morning after the leaves have dried on a cool day. 

• Q&A: Harvesting Herbs 

Answer: I wonder if you're accidentally bruising the stems when you harvest your herbs? Sometimes it's best to snip the stems with a pair of scissors. A clean cut will heal quickly, and the act of snipping the growing tips promotes new stem and leaf growth on the remaining portion of the stem. 

It might also be that you're not harvesting often enough. With both the basil and oregano, try harvesting frequently rather than waiting until late in the season. You can snip sprigs from spring through summer. In fact, oregano sprigs can be harvested when the plant is only 6" high, and you can continue snipping the leaves and stems throughout the summer months. 

• Q&A: Preserving Basil 

Answer: Basil retains is flavor best when stored in a jar of oil or vinegar in the refrigerator, or made into pesto. You can freeze pesto, too, though it's best to leave the garlic out, since it gets bitter when frozen. To dry basil, spread the cleaned leaves on cookie sheets, and place in your oven, set on its lowest setting. Leave the oven door ajar to allow air circulation, and stir the leaves frequently to ensure even drying. Remove them when crispy, allow them to cool, and store them in airtight jars. 
 

• Q&A: Basil from seed

Answer: Starting basil from seed is similar to starting most seeds. Plant in slightly moist seed starting mix, covering seed with just 1/8" or so of soil. Loosely cover the container with plastic wrap to maintain humidity and set in a spot out of direct sunlight. At warm temperatures (about 70 degrees) the basil should germinate in just a few days. As soon as you see sprouts, remove the plastic and place the pot in direct sunlight, or within 1-2" of a fluorescent light bulb. Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy and the plants should grow well. You can also sow seed directly into a garden bed in full sun as soon as the soil has warmed in spring. 

By starting your own seeds, you can enjoy a number of unusual varieties of basil, including lime and lemon basils, cinnamon basil, and Thai basil. And don't forget some attractive and tasty purple basil! 

• Q&A: Harvesting Sage  

Answer: To harvest sage, snip off a stem or branch and pull the leaves off. (The stems of your sage plant will become woody with age). Or, snip tender sprigs from the tops of the plants throughout the season. The more you pinch and snip, the bushier your plant will grow. 

• Q&A: Trimming Hydrangea  

Answer: You must be refering to Hydrangea arborescens (Smooth Hydrangea). Many other species of hydrangeas would not be hardy in your region. In your region it is best to treat this plant as an "herbaceous perennial"; that is, one that essentially dies back to the crown and regrows each year. 

In late winter, cut back the plant right to the ground and fertilize lightly. Although cutting back like this should produce a sturdy stem, there is really nothing you can do to keep the flowers from weighting down the branches. You can, however, use them as cut flowers, or dry them for use in dried bouquets. To dry them, simply cut the flowers at the base when they are fully open and just beginning to fade, strip off the leaves, tie them in a bunch, and hang them in a cool, dry place. 

• Q&A: Yellow Leaves on Impatiens 

Answer: It sounds as though your impatiens have developed a fungal disease. This can happen when conditions are too wet or when plants are overcrowded. Disease pathogens need three things to become established: a susceptible host (usually a plant that's under stress), a pathogen, and the right environmental conditions. 

Your best defense against disease problems is to provide all of the cultural requirements necessary for healthy growth, keep water off leaves as much as possible, and remove diseased plant parts as soon as you notice them. If leaves on the entire plant are affected, it may be too late to save your impatiens. If only a few leaves and stems have symptoms, cut them off the plants to encourage healthy new growth. 
 

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